Coco Chanel - a fashion icon and fascists friend

Description:

Even those who know nothing about Coco Chanel's life have likely heard of the 'little black dress' and 'Chanel No. 5' perfume. However, these iconic creations are just a small part of her contributions. In short, Chanel changed the status of women in the world. Can this be achieved with hats and dresses? It turns out, yes. Why did a woman who sewed dresses inspire musicians and poets? And not just as a woman, but as a designer. Do hats and dresses relate to art? Chanel herself did not want to be called an artist, but others disagreed. Another painful question: Can all that Chanel did for fashion and for women in general outweigh her collaboration with the fascists? There is no single answer to this question. 00:00:00 Introduction. Lecture topic. 00:00:30 Tamara Eidelman's journey to Yekaterinburg. 00:02:52 Victor Marguerite's novel 'The Bachelor Girl'. 00:08:02 The origins and family of Coco Chanel. 00:10:46 How the status of women changed at the beginning of the 20th century. 00:14:58 How women's fashion changed at the beginning of the 20th century. 00:22:04 How the perception of female beauty evolved at the beginning of the 20th century. 00:24:04 Coco's childhood. 00:28:59 The start of designer Paul Poiret's career. 00:31:25 Coco's training in sewing and work as a seamstress. 00:32:42 The luxurious life of Misia Sert in the early 20th century. 00:34:00 New trends by Paul Poiret. 00:34:52 Coco's attempts to become a singer and the emergence of her nickname. 00:36:58 Coco's character. 00:38:29 Global cultural changes of the 1900s. 00:40:35 Coco's work in Vichy. 00:42:41 Coco's new status in her relationship with Étienne Balsan. 00:46:27 Coco and Emilienne d'Alençon. 00:48:07 Coco's life with Étienne Balsan. 00:51:09 Gender experiments with clothing. 00:52:51 Coco's work on hats. 00:56:08 Presentation of Paul Poiret's perfume. 00:58:34 How Coco's relationship with Arthur Capel contributed to the popularity of Chanel hats. 00:59:33 Coco and the rhythms of a changing world. 01:02:00 The free dance of Isadora Duncan. 01:05:48 Coco's desire to become a dancer. 01:07:09 Opening of the second hat shop. 01:09:38 The beginning of clothing design. 01:12:13 The popularity of Chanel's clothing during World War I. 01:17:58 Tragedies in Coco's personal life. 01:20:55 Friendship with the Serts. 01:25:16 Coco and the aristocracy. 01:28:26 Coco and art figures. 01:29:29 The Roaring Twenties. How fashion and lifestyle changed. 01:33:15 Chanel's costumes for the ballet 'Le Train Bleu'. 01:35:50 Chanel No. 5. 01:39:31 The color black in the 19th and 20th centuries. 01:45:53 The little black dress. 01:47:03 Criticism of Chanel's clothing and hats. 01:47:53 Coco and the 1930s crisis. 01:51:42 The fashion revolution of Elsa Schiaparelli. 01:56:29 Coco and new trends of the 1930s. 01:59:29 Coco during World War II. 02:01:55 Coco's relationship with Hans Gunther von Dincklage. 02:05:05 Coco as a German spy? 02:08:55 Coco in the post-war years. 02:10:25 The fashion revolution of Christian Dior. 02:12:09 The downfall of Chanel. What saved the fashion house from complete bankruptcy? 02:14:49 Coco and the denial of the new. 02:16:30 Coco's solitude and departure into eternity.