Coco Chanel - a fashion icon and fascists friend

Even those who know nothing about Coco Chanel's life have likely heard of the 'little black dress' and 'Chanel No. 5' perfume. However, these iconic creations are just a small part of her contributions. In short, Chanel changed the status of women in the world. Can this be achieved with hats and dresses? It turns out, yes. Why did a woman who sewed dresses inspire musicians and poets? And not just as a woman, but as a designer. Do hats and dresses relate to art? Chanel herself did not want to be called an artist, but others disagreed. Another painful question: Can all that Chanel did for fashion and for women in general outweigh her collaboration with the fascists? There is no single answer to this question. 00:00:00 Introduction. Lecture topic. 00:00:30 Tamara Eidelman's journey to Yekaterinburg. 00:02:52 Victor Marguerite's novel 'The Bachelor Girl'. 00:08:02 The origins and family of Coco Chanel. 00:10:46 How the status of women changed at the beginning of the 20th century. 00:14:58 How women's fashion changed at the beginning of the 20th century. 00:22:04 How the perception of female beauty evolved at the beginning of the 20th century. 00:24:04 Coco's childhood. 00:28:59 The start of designer Paul Poiret's career. 00:31:25 Coco's training in sewing and work as a seamstress. 00:32:42 The luxurious life of Misia Sert in the early 20th century. 00:34:00 New trends by Paul Poiret. 00:34:52 Coco's attempts to become a singer and the emergence of her nickname. 00:36:58 Coco's character. 00:38:29 Global cultural changes of the 1900s. 00:40:35 Coco's work in Vichy. 00:42:41 Coco's new status in her relationship with Étienne Balsan. 00:46:27 Coco and Emilienne d'Alençon. 00:48:07 Coco's life with Étienne Balsan. 00:51:09 Gender experiments with clothing. 00:52:51 Coco's work on hats. 00:56:08 Presentation of Paul Poiret's perfume. 00:58:34 How Coco's relationship with Arthur Capel contributed to the popularity of Chanel hats. 00:59:33 Coco and the rhythms of a changing world. 01:02:00 The free dance of Isadora Duncan. 01:05:48 Coco's desire to become a dancer. 01:07:09 Opening of the second hat shop. 01:09:38 The beginning of clothing design. 01:12:13 The popularity of Chanel's clothing during World War I. 01:17:58 Tragedies in Coco's personal life. 01:20:55 Friendship with the Serts. 01:25:16 Coco and the aristocracy. 01:28:26 Coco and art figures. 01:29:29 The Roaring Twenties. How fashion and lifestyle changed. 01:33:15 Chanel's costumes for the ballet 'Le Train Bleu'. 01:35:50 Chanel No. 5. 01:39:31 The color black in the 19th and 20th centuries. 01:45:53 The little black dress. 01:47:03 Criticism of Chanel's clothing and hats. 01:47:53 Coco and the 1930s crisis. 01:51:42 The fashion revolution of Elsa Schiaparelli. 01:56:29 Coco and new trends of the 1930s. 01:59:29 Coco during World War II. 02:01:55 Coco's relationship with Hans Gunther von Dincklage. 02:05:05 Coco as a German spy? 02:08:55 Coco in the post-war years. 02:10:25 The fashion revolution of Christian Dior. 02:12:09 The downfall of Chanel. What saved the fashion house from complete bankruptcy? 02:14:49 Coco and the denial of the new. 02:16:30 Coco's solitude and departure into eternity.